SURFING NIAS (2018)

Bruce Brown, famous surf filmmaker and director of “The Endless Summer” once commented that surf exploration can be incredibly disheartening.  “You travel halfway around the world and you’ll rarely find someplace as good as Malibu” However, Australian surfers, both derelict and bohemian, hit the jackpot when they went searching for waves in Nias during the mid-1970’s.  Today, surfers make up the great majority of travellers and tourists who visit Nias hoping to score one of its many world class waves. With a true sense of solitude, it’s not uncommon to find yourself alone in the line-up on Nias, even during peak season.  There’s a little bit for everyone on Nias, regardless of your experience or skill level so be sure to read on to discover where, when, and how to surf in Nias.

What kind of wave is Dipi?

Accessed ideally by boat from Saroke, or local-lead bushwack through the jungle, Dipi offers a sheltered reef that sucks into a hollow barrel that requires full commitment.  Known as Hiliduha, DP or 8 Frame, Dipi is considered one of the more expert-level waves on the island. It can be tough to tell from shore weather the wave is breaking which often deters crowds.   Expect peaky waves ripe for tube-riding both left and right over shallow reef with an easy paddle-out. Not recommended for beginner or intermediate surfers.

What kind of wave is Indicators at Lagundri Bay?

Located just above the point at Lagundri Bay, Indicators is the point’s needy and gnarly cousin.  Under the right conditions, Indicators can throw some of the thickest barrels in Nias let alone the world.  Indicators breaks over a short section of sharp and shallow reef which fires hairpin barrels. On a high spring tide, under ideal conditions, Indicators can offer expert level barrels for those willing to take the risk.  If you’re willing to test your limits and you can’t handle the crowd at the Point, Indicators might be the spot for you.

What kind of wave is Secret (Nias)?

While Secret, or Northern Secret, sometimes called Walohiu Left is by no means the only secluded and “secret” wave you’ll find on Nias.  A way north of the more popular spots in Lagundri Bay on the West Coast of Nias, Secret tends to be secluded and void of crowds. A bit of a swell magnet, Secret breaks well under most conditions.  After a 30 minute trek through the jungle or slightly shorter boat ride, you’re likely to find clean and peeling lefts for the rogue goofy footer in your crew. Considering there are so many un-named and “secret” spots throughout this region of the island, it might be worth your time and cash to hire a local surf guide.  Always a bit of a journey, you’re likely to score empty line-ups and fun clean surf at Secret.

What kind of wave is The Machine?

The Machine is one of the few waves that has sprouted up in Nias since the earthquake in 2004.  The Machine is reminiscent of a laundromat; a deep hollow spitting left that breaks on the highest tides and largest swells.  A 5-minute drive across the bay from The Point at Lagundri Bay, you’re likely to have fewer crowds at the Machine simply due to its expert nature.   Difficult to access via the channel from shore, it’s ideal to paddle out at the Machine by boat but easy to make your way back to the point after your last barrel.   In addition, the Machine is in close proximity to some of the other mellower waves on Nias like Rivermouth, beach break, and Sobatu.

What kind of wave is Walohiu?

It may seem a bit repetitive, but Walohiu is another world-class wave on Nias.  A near perfect left-handed shoulder and inside. Walohiu peels along a point towards a river mouth at the shore.  Just 30-minute walk or 15-minute boat ride from Lagundri Bay, Walohiu is a great place to skip the crowds and do some exploring.  You’re likely to find clean open faces for upwards of 100 metres. Definitely, worth the trek, Walohiu should make your Nias surf list.  

How do you get in and out of the surf?

Paddling out at Afulu:  Walk to the northernmost end of the beach and turn towards the peak.  You’ll notice a jumble of rocks south of the channel that you’ll want to avoid.  After you’ve headed out past the rocks, turn towards the peak. After each wave, head for the shoulder which will bring you back into the channel and keep you clear of shallow reef.  

Paddling out at Asu: Unless you’re staying at one of the surf camps located on Asu, you’ll want to access this wave via boat. If you’re headed from land, pull on your booties and be prepared for a bit of jaunt over the sharp exposed reef.  Head north of the break and look for the channel but be prepared for a few encounters with the reef.

Paddling out at Dipi: A 20-minute car or motorbike ride from nearby Lagundri bay, 8 frame is just outside of Hiliduha village.  Considering it’s somewhat finicky nature, it’s nice to have the greater vantage point of access by boat. If it’s not breaking, it’s a short car or boat ride to Rockstar, Hiliduha’s other world-class break. Hug the channel on the paddle-out but access is relatively easy once you make the trek from local accommodation.   

Paddling out at Hilisataro:  Hilisataro breaks relatively close to shore and is a quick and easy paddle out through the break.  While you won’t have your feet on the ground for long, expect to trek through a bit of coral on the way outside.  For this reason, it’s a safe bet to rock a pair of booties but not entirely necessary. A short ride from Hiliduha village, Rock Star is easy to access despite its expert level wave.  

Paddling out at The Point:  The Point put Nias on the map as one of the greatest waves in the world and potentially one of the easiest accessed breaks in the world.  Surfers paddle out through a small break in the reef called the keyhole located directly in front of Sorake beach. A quick 1-2 minute paddle puts you at the peak.  While the Point is predictable, easily accessed, and by far one of the best waves globally, know your limitations and be prepared for thick, heavy, reeling barrels.

Paddling out at Indicators: Paddling out to the Keyhole is about a 250-metre paddle from the keyhole at the point.  Head far to the right and you’ll see Indicators peeling over the reef. Stick to the channel until you make it to the peak and keep your eye out for dry reef on the inside.  If it’s your first time surfing indicators, stick to the line-up for the first few waves and keep an eye on where and when other folks are kicking out. It’s good to be conservative on your first session anywhere, but under ideal conditions, it’s worth the extra balls it takes to score a 10-second barrel.  

Paddling out at Secret (Nias):  Head northeast along the coast from Lagundri bay and keep your eye on the ocean.  Secret is a short drive from Lagundri followed by a 30-minute walk through the jungle.  You’re likely to find a few other hidden gems along the way. If you’re looking to spend more time surfing and less time exploring, hire a guide and hop on a boat.  

The Machine: Just a quick 5-minute motorbike ride from The Point at Lagundri Bay, the machine is a bit easier to access by a leisurely boat ride across the bay.  

Paddling out at Walohiu: Just a 30-minute walk through the jungle north of the Point, Walohiu breaks along a bank of the shoreline that turns in eastward past Indicators.  If you’re not up for the hike, consider taking a 15-minute boat ride straight out to the line-up.